Source: PIB

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Context

• The North Eastern Handicrafts and Handlooms Development Corporation (NEHHDC) under the Ministry of Development of North Eastern Region (DoNER), Govt. of India, has successfully obtained the prestigious Oeko-Tex certification for its Eri Silk, directly from Germany.

Details

Eri Silk

• Origin: Eri silk is native to the northeastern states of India, particularly Assam and Meghalaya.
• Etymology: The name "Eri" comes from the Assamese word "era," meaning "castor," as the silkworms feed on the castor plant.
• Sustainability: Known as "Ahimsa" or "peace" silk, Eri silk is cruelty-free, harvested after the silkworms naturally exit their cocoons.

Production Process

• Silkworm Species: Eri silk is produced from the Samia ricini
• Diet: The silkworms primarily feed on the leaves of the castor plant (Ricinus communis).
• Lifecycle: The production cycle from egg to cocoon takes approximately 45-50 days.
• Harvesting Method: After the moths leave the cocoons, the cocoons are boiled to remove sericin, and the fiber is spun into yarn.
• Spinning: The yarn is spun using handlooms, floor looms, or power looms. The process is labor-intensive due to the short filaments of the silk.

Unique Characteristics

• Texture: Eri silk is soft, warm, and has a woolly texture, making it comfortable for all-season wear.
• Durability: It is durable with good tensile strength and elasticity.
• Color: Naturally off-white, Eri silk can be dyed using natural or chemical dyes, although plant-based dyes are commonly used in traditional practices.

Environmental and Ethical Aspects

• Cruelty-Free: Eri silk is known as Ahimsa silk because the moths are not killed during the process.
• Eco-Friendly Production: The production process is environmentally friendly with minimal waste, aligning with the principles of a circular economy.
• Local Economy: Eri silk production supports rural livelihoods, particularly empowering women through cottage industries.

Geographical Significance

• Major Producing Regions: Assam and Meghalaya are the primary producers, with Meghalaya being renowned for its high-quality Eri silk.
• Climate: The warm and humid climate of Northeast India is ideal for Eri silk cultivation.

Applications and Uses

• Apparel: Eri silk is used to make a variety of garments, from shawls to sarees.
• Furnishings: It is also used in home furnishings due to its soft texture and durability.
• Artisanal Products: Increasingly popular in sustainable fashion and artisanal markets.

Oeko-Tex Certification

• Oeko-Tex is an international certification system designed to ensure that textiles and leather products are tested for harmful substances and produced in environmentally and socially responsible ways.
• The certification is highly respected in the textile industry, providing a reliable and standardized method for assessing product safety.

Types of Oeko-Tex Certifications

Oeko-Tex offers several types of certifications, each focusing on different aspects of textile and leather product safety and sustainability:

• Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex:Focuses on testing textiles at all stages of production for harmful substances. It is one of the most widely recognized certifications.
• Made in Green by Oeko-Tex:Ensures that the product is not only safe from harmful substances but also produced in environmentally friendly and socially responsible conditions.
• Leather Standard by Oeko-Tex:Specifically for leather products, ensuring they meet similar safety standards.
• STeP by Oeko-Tex:Certification for sustainable textile and leather production, covering the entire production process.
• ECO Passport by Oeko-Tex:A certification for chemicals, dyes, and auxiliaries used in the textile production process, ensuring they meet safety and environmental standards.

Global Reach

• Oeko-Tex certifications are recognized globally, with partner institutes in over 60 countries.
• This wide recognition offers a competitive advantage to manufacturers by allowing them to certify products once and have that certification accepted across multiple markets.
• The certification also reassures consumers about the safety and environmental responsibility of the products they purchase.

Criteria and Testing

The Oeko-Tex certification system tests for a wide range of harmful substances, including:

• Regulated substances:Such as azo dyes, formaldehyde, and nickel.
• Non-regulated substances:That are harmful to health but not yet legally controlled.
• REACH Regulation Compliance:Ensures adherence to European chemical safety regulations.
• Product Classification:Based on the degree of skin contact, ranging from products for babies (Class I) to products with no direct skin contact (Class IV).

Silk

• Silk is a natural protein fiber produced by certain insect larvae, notably the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori), during the formation of cocoons.
• The shimmering appearance of silk fabric is due to its triangular prism-like structure, which refracts light at different angles, creating a lustrous and luxurious look.

Historical Background

• Silk production, known as sericulture, has its origins in China, dating back to around 2696 BC.
• For centuries, China held a monopoly on silk production, keeping the process a closely guarded secret.
• The Byzantine Empire eventually acquired the knowledge in the 6th century AD, and silk production spread across Europe and Asia.
• Today, more than 60 countries produce silk, with China, India, and Brazil being the largest producers.

Types of Silk

Silk comes in various types, each with unique characteristics:

• Mulberry Silk: The most common type, known for its strength, softness, and smooth texture.
• Eri Silk: Also known as 'peace silk' because it does not require killing the silkworms. It is heavier and more durable than mulberry silk.
• Tussar Silk: Produced from wild silkworms, mostly found in India. It has a natural golden color.
• Muga Silk: Exclusive to Assam in India, this silk is known for its natural golden hue and durability.
• Spider Silk: Extremely rare and expensive, spider silk is known for its remarkable strength, but it's not widely used due to the challenges of production.

Silk Production Process

The production of silk involves several steps:

• Cultivation of Silkworms: Silkworms are cultivated and fed on specific leaves (e.g., mulberry leaves for Bombyx mori).
• Spinning of Cocoons: The silkworms spin cocoons made of raw silk filaments.
• Extraction: The cocoons are soaked in hot water to soften the sericin (gum) that holds the cocoon together, allowing the silk filaments to be unwound.
• Weaving: The silk threads are spun and woven into fabric.

Global and Indian Silk Industry

• Global Production: China is the largest producer and exporter of silk, followed by India, Brazil, Uzbekistan, and Thailand. Silk is used globally in fashion, home décor, and industrial applications.

INDIA’S SILK SECTOR   India is the second-largest producer of silk in the world, contributing around 20% to the global production. The Indian silk industry is known for its diversity, producing all four commercially viable varieties of silk—Mulberry, Tussar, Eri, and Muga. The sector plays a crucial role in the rural economy, providing employment to millions, particularly in states like Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Assam, West Bengal, and Tamil Nadu. Historical Background The history of silk in India dates back to ancient times, with evidence of silk production found in the Indus Valley Civilization. Silk was traditionally used for royal and religious purposes, and it continues to hold cultural significance, especially in traditional Indian garments like sarees and dhotis.  Types of Silk in India Mulberry Silk: The most common and commercially important variety, accounting for about 70% of India's silk production. Karnataka is the leading producer. Tussar Silk: Known for its rich texture and natural gold color, Tussar is mainly produced in Jharkhand, Bihar, Odisha, and Chhattisgarh. Eri Silk: Also known as "peace silk" because it does not involve killing the silkworms. Assam is the primary producer of Eri silk. Muga Silk: Exclusive to Assam, Muga silk is known for its natural golden hue and durability. It is a symbol of Assamese culture and tradition. Geographical Distribution Karnataka: Dominates mulberry silk production, contributing about 60% to the country's total output. West Bengal: Known for its production of mulberry and Tussar silk. Assam: Renowned for Muga and Eri silk, with unique weaving traditions. Jharkhand, Bihar, Odisha, and Chhattisgarh: Major producers of Tussar silk. Economic Significance The silk industry is a vital part of India's rural economy: Employment: Provides livelihoods to over 9 million people, including farmers, reelers, and weavers. Exports: India is one of the largest exporters of silk and silk products, including sarees, garments, and home textiles. Major export markets include the United States, the European Union, and the Middle East. Value Chain: The silk value chain includes sericulture farmers, reeling units, weaving units, and garment manufacturers, with significant contributions from women and marginalized communities. Government Initiatives To support and promote the silk sector, the Indian government has launched several initiatives: Central Silk Board (CSB): The apex body for the development of the silk industry in India. It provides research, training, and financial assistance to sericulturists. Silk Samagra Yojana: A comprehensive scheme aimed at improving the productivity and quality of silk. Integrated Scheme for the Development of Silk Industry (ISDSI): Focuses on expanding mulberry cultivation, improving infrastructure, and enhancing the skills of workers in the silk sector. Challenges Despite its significance, the Indian silk sector faces several challenges: High Production Costs: The cost of raw materials and labor is high, making Indian silk less competitive in the global market. Pest and Disease Management: Sericulture is vulnerable to pests and diseases, which can significantly impact production. Technological Gaps: Traditional methods are still prevalent, leading to lower productivity and quality compared to modern techniques. Environmental Concerns: The silk industry, particularly in regions like Karnataka, faces issues related to water scarcity and soil degradation.

Key Fabrics In India

State	Key Fabrics	Traditional Significance
Assam	Muga Silk, Eri Silk, Assam Cotton	Known for its luxurious Muga Silk, exclusive to Assam, and the eco-friendly Eri Silk.
West Bengal	Bengal Cotton (Muslin), Baluchari Silk, Jamdani	Bengal Muslin was historically a prized fabric; Baluchari and Jamdani are iconic weaves.
Gujarat	Bandhani, Patola, Mashru	Patola silk sarees and Bandhani tie-dye are traditional crafts with centuries-old heritage.
Rajasthan	Kota Doria, Bandhej, Leheriya	Kota Doria is known for its lightweight and breathable quality; Bandhej is traditional tie-dye.
Maharashtra	Paithani, Himroo, Narayan Peth	Paithani sarees are rich, handwoven silk sarees known for their intricate pallu designs.
Tamil Nadu	Kanchipuram Silk, Madurai Sungudi, Chettinad Cotton	Kanchipuram sarees are iconic in South Indian bridal wear; Madurai Sungudi is a traditional print.
Uttar Pradesh	Banarasi Silk, Chikankari, Brocades	Banarasi silk sarees are famous for their opulent zari work; Chikankari is an intricate embroidery style.
Punjab	Phulkari, Khaddar	Phulkari is a traditional embroidery style, while Khaddar represents the handspun cotton fabric.
Karnataka	Mysore Silk, Ilkal Sarees	Mysore silk is known for its purity and gold zari work; Ilkal sarees are traditional and handwoven.
Odisha	Ikat, Sambalpuri Silk	Odisha is renowned for its Ikat and Sambalpuri sarees, which have intricate tie-dye patterns.
Madhya Pradesh	Chanderi, Maheshwari	Chanderi sarees are lightweight and luxurious; Maheshwari sarees are known for their simplicity and elegance.
Telangana	Pochampally Ikat, Gadwal	Pochampally is famous for its complex Ikat designs; Gadwal sarees are light and easy to wear.
Kerala	Kasavu Sarees, Balaramapuram Handloom	Kasavu sarees are traditional wear for festivals and weddings in Kerala.
Manipur	Moirang Phee, Phanek	Moirang Phee sarees are known for their unique patterns; Phanek is a traditional wrap-around skirt.

Sources:

PIB 

PRACTICE QUESTION Q: Consider the following statements regarding Eri silk: Eri silk, also known as "Ahimsa silk," is produced without killing the silkworm. The production of Eri silk is predominantly concentrated in the state of Assam. Eri silk is derived from the cocoon of the Bombyx mori silkworm species. Which of the statements given above is/are correct? a) 1 and 2 only b) 2 and 3 only c) 1 and 3 only d) 1, 2, and 3 Answer: a)